Guadeloupe’s nearby dependencies

If it weren’t for the islands that surround it, Guadeloupe would lose a significant part of its appeal to tourists. Although they’re not far away you get the impression that they are much further, not because of the geographical distance but because of the distinctive way of life each of them retains. If you don’t go there while cruising there are regular ferry services (from Pointe-à-Pitre, Basse Terre, St François,) as well as air connections to each of the islands’ small airfields. What follows is a short history of each island or island group. After that comes the usual detailed look at the coasts and approaches.

Marie Galante
Columbus discovered the island on 3 November 1493 during his second voyage and it is named after one of his caravels, the Maria Galanda. According to the latest archaeological discoveries (pottery), it was occupied by the Amerindians in the second or third century BC, until finally taken over by the Caribs sometime between the 6th and 8th centuries AD. The French set foot on the island as early as the mid 17th century in order to grow sugar cane. Marie Galante became ‘the island of sugar’ with more than 100 mills. Now only 70 are left, more or less ruins. Even if the majority of the plantations disappeared in the 19th century, this big pancake-shaped island of 160 sq km. between Guadeloupe and Dominica is still basically farmland from which potent rum is produced. Otherwise the 12,500 inhabitants get their livelihood from fishing, stock rearing and some tourism. There’s a good road network either for exploring the interior or following the shoreline. The coast has several geological oddities with evocative names like Gueule Grand Gouffre and Grotte du Trou à Diable, but be warned, some of these places are only accessible with special equipment. The island’s towns, all situated along the coast, are small and simple. In the most important, Grand Bourg in the SW, activities focus round the small port. St Louis on the W coast is a hamlet of painted houses on a superb beach. Vieux Fort, the first colonists’ main town, is now just a small fishing village. Here the remains of cottages built ‘en gaulettes’ (from plaited withies) bear witness to the old building techniques. Facing the Atlantic on the E coast, Capesterre shelters a fine beach behind its barrier reef.

These small settlements have little by way of tourism infrastructure. As a result they have remained mostly unspoilt and the people still offer a warm welcome. Small restaurants and simple lolos have a variety of dishes, often spicy, and made from local produce. Don’t miss out the distilleries and their introduction to the secrets of rum making, nor on the chance to enjoy the fragrance and powerful kick of their highly alcoholic production – in moderation, naturally. Some of the mills (locally called sucrotes) and habitations or plantation houses, offer an insight into the ways of the old plantations. The best known, Habitation Murat, has been prettily restored as a museum.

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Les Saintes

Discovered by Columbus in 1493 on All Saints Day (1 November), the little archipelago was first called ‘Los Santos’. The geographical variety of this small archipelago of less than 15 sq km and made up of two main islands, three smaller ones and several islets, gives it much to boast about. The height of its bluffs and the silhouette presented by its coast offer unforgettable views as well as sheltered inlets and beaches. There are many bike paths and footpaths along which you might come across an iguana, still to be found here because they are protected.

The natural beauty of Les Saintes is enhanced if you know something of the history of the place; which includes the biggest naval battle ever fought by the French and English in the Caribbean. On 12th April 1782, off the Saintes, Admiral Rodney’s fleet defeated the Comte de Grasse’s French squadron. This victory is of special significance in that it marks the beginning of the era of British maritime supremacy. The French, who wanted to make an impregnable outpost at the Saintes, in the 19th century built a number of fortifications and batteries, amongst them Fort Joséphine on Ilet Cabrit and Fort Napoléon on Morne à Mire. The latter, dominating Terre de Haut Bay, has been restored and turned into a small museum devoted to the events of the great battle.
The population of 3,000 is split evenly between Terre de Haut and Terre de Bas. These people claim direct descent from the first colonists, supposedly Bretons, who occupied the islands from 1643 on. It’s certainly true that inter-marriage has been relatively slight because the poverty of the soil and the resultant small-scale farming meant that there was no need to import slaves. This sense of identity is most marked on Terre de Haut where fishing is still the mainstay and agriculture produces no more than the bare minimum. There are still 100 registered Saintois fishermen who crisscross Guadeloupe waters in boats called saintoises. The result is that in Bourg de Terre de Haut you’ll often come across faces which, although well-tanned by sun and salt spray, are reminiscent of Bretons and Normans back in France.

A sartorial peculiarity of the Saintes, now tending to fall out of use, is the ‘salako’. This large hat made of plaited plant fibres was originally worn by the colonial maritime infantry of Tonkin and was brought to the Saintes by Annamite soldiery.
In Terre de Bas richer soil meant better farming, hence slave labour and, today, a more mixed population. This slight difference in skin colour between the peoples of the two islands might escape the notice of the passing cruiser. But small though it is, it does seem to affect relations between the two places and their respective ways of life because they are so tiny and so close together.
There’s also unequal tourist development, most of the big hotels being on Terre de Haut mainly because it has better, more sheltered beaches. Because of this relatively high-density tourism there are more restaurants and bars on Terre de Haut too. Terre de Bas is less developed and therefore seems a lot more rustic, quieter and unspoilt, which will no doubt make it more appealing to some.

For more details on les Saintes :